![](https://www.naturecoastdulcimerworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/full-pic.jpg)
This one may prove to be a bit of a challenge. Elsie had asked if I could lower the action on a dulcimer she had been given. On closer inspection, this instrument really needed some TLC to be fully playable.
It has a really beautiful shape and a nice sound, but the fretboard was a bit of a head-scratcher.
![](https://www.naturecoastdulcimerworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/middle-300x169.jpg)
It appears that this dulcimer was designed to be played only on the melody string with a wooden noter–the traditional style (and the way I normally played for about 20 years). The seventh fret was a half fret, making it unusable for chording.
![](https://www.naturecoastdulcimerworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/tuning-pegs.jpg)
The scroll head is interesting, but the current nut is covering an old zero fret slot…
![](https://www.naturecoastdulcimerworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/nut-grooves.jpg)
and the strings are cutting into the end of the fretboard–the same thing is happening at the tailstock as well.
![](https://www.naturecoastdulcimerworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/fret-square2.jpg)
Several of the frets themselves are not square;
![](https://www.naturecoastdulcimerworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/fret-square.jpg)
this is not so much of a problem if you only play on the melody string, but becomes problematic while chording.
![](https://www.naturecoastdulcimerworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/fret-placement.jpg)
Finally, the scale is strange and the frets are somewhat misaligned. It’s technically 26.375″, but the bridge is set closer to a 28″ scale. The 2nd fret (on the left) is close to correct, but the third fret is set for a 28″ scale.
![](https://www.naturecoastdulcimerworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/walnut.jpg)
The good thing is, the fretboard is nicely flat, so my suggestion is to create a new walnut fingerboard (seen here) with a new bridge and nut.
![](https://www.naturecoastdulcimerworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Fret-remove.jpg)
After receiving permission to continue, I removed the frets and sanded down the fretboard, removing the previous slots and preparing it for the new fingerboard.
![](https://www.naturecoastdulcimerworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/slots-removed.jpg)
Meanwhile, I trimmed and sanded the new fingerboard to prepare for fret installation.
![](https://www.naturecoastdulcimerworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/scoring-frets-300x169.jpg)
After cutting the walnut fingerboard and sanding it carefully to fit the existing fretboard, I used my 1/100 ruler to mark the fret pattern for a 28″ scale pattern. It’s a very delicate operation so I can’t rush it. I then use my Japanese fret saw to cut the frets.
![](https://www.naturecoastdulcimerworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Installed-frets.jpg)
Once the frets are pressed into position, I must file down the edges flush with the fingerboard.
![](https://www.naturecoastdulcimerworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/fingerboard-glue2.jpg)
At this point, I glue the fingerboard to the fretboard using clamps and my homemade jig and let it dry.
![](https://www.naturecoastdulcimerworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/fingerboard-glue3.jpg)
After trimming the board and working around the strum hollow,
![](https://www.naturecoastdulcimerworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/string-guides.jpg)
it’s time to add the string guide near the nut.
![](https://www.naturecoastdulcimerworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/nut.jpg)
After doing some final staining and a coat of polyurethane, I’m ready to attach the strings.
![](https://www.naturecoastdulcimerworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/bridge.jpg)
I round off the end of the fretboard to prevent the strings from cutting into the wood.
![](https://www.naturecoastdulcimerworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/finished-300x169.jpg)
The finished dulcimer, as good as new!